June 21, 2021
Logomania and lightness are the order of the day at Prada. Alongside Miuccia Prada, Raf Simons took over the house’s crest and declined it in multiple versions.
On Sunday, the new video of the men’s fashion show from the Milanese house opened on the back of a young man wearing a black nylon leotard and a golf hat. Both pieces were adorned with logos, one encircled with a rope and the other in its triangular metallic version. Seen from the front, the model turned out to be wearing micro-shorts, black socks and matching dress shoes.
The next look, topped with a samurai version of the golf cap, also featured a mini logo on the back. Bags whose lines recalled those of As Four were embossed with exploded “Prada Milano” logos.
Logos were everywhere, on mini leather bucket bags, pink sweatshirts and mini cable jumpers. One of Raf Simmons’ first collaborations with Miuccia Prada had already given rise to the variation of the house logo in the form of an earring.
On the formal side, suit jackets were much less cropped and largely covered the micro-shorts with which they were associated.
When she was still alone at the head of her house, Miuccia Prada generally favored the multicultural musical mixtapes of the sound engineer Frédéric Sanchez. Now that Raf Simons is at his side, the atmosphere is more techno and the soundtrack of this season was based on industrial rhythms a little too far from the world of Prada.
In a remarkable sleight of hand, the models first walked a red brick corridor before suddenly emerging from this ephemeral work of land art on a Mediterranean beach. Here again, micro-shorts were ubiquitous, worn with Super 100 wool blazers, sleeves rolled up to the elbow, in true disco style. Just weeks after Netflix’s tribute to Halston with its new series.
The most notorious pieces of this Prada Spring / Summer 2022 show included leather perfectos worthy of rock star, very successful and available in yellow or red. There was also a great set of stenciled summer shirts, and graphic party tops to wear on the beach, worn with matching fabric bags and moccasins. The mannequins did not remove them to enter the sea, jumping on bright red dikes floating on the water.
Despite its impeccable realization, this collection seems imagined by two designers desperately trying to be as commercial as possible. The idea of associating two designers as emblematic as Miuccia and Raf has, unfortunately, not led to any explosion of ideas but to a simple multiplication of logos. The sauce of this collective collection is difficult to take.
The parade and the collection, unfortunately, do not succeed in inspiring.
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