“How about a weekend of skiing on the mountain?” or “let’s go horse riding?” these are questions related to activities that few of us have access to—let alone actually doing them. On the other hand, these hobbies they seem to have become a trend for big brands in Europe — which makes things a little more understandable, but still quirky.
Mountain fashion has been gaining traction for some time. Italian Moncler is an example of this. The brand, which recently announced former Nike head Gino Fisanotti as director and the purchase of Stone Island, specializes in mountain apparel and has become a favorite in the luxury market. In the assessment of Lyst Index, in the first quarter of 2021, it appears in 5th place among the “hottest of the moment”, surpassing names like Prada and Louis Vuitton.
Moncler also carries the title of “most sustainable luxury brand in the world”, according to the Dow Jones Sustainability Indices (DJSI), a global indicator of financial performance. The launch of Born to Protect jackets, made from recycled materials, was one of the drivers for this achievement.
This piece, in particular, takes us to puffer jackets, the most beloved coats of the moment. In recent times, when we could hardly hug other people, they were chosen as the substitutes for such a show of affection.
“This is a type of coat that until very recently was considered tacky, without silhouette, which did not value the body. The idea of the increased silhouette made it come back to the surface in a fashion and no longer just as protection for low temperatures,” said Professor Marcio Banfi, stylist and professor at Faculdade Santa Marcelina, to Our.
Miu Miu was one of the brands that chose the piece as one of the stars of the fall/winter 2021 collection. For this, models were taken up the mountain for a parade that looked like a trip to the ski resort. The other clothes they wore brought their own materials for the activity: furry overalls and balaclavas that protected part of their faces, the latter being in pastel colors.
We create clothes that could challenge perception and context, in addition to the pretense of practicality”
The furry and quilted fabrics were also present by Chanel for the Ready-to-Wear Autumn/Winter 2021. The pieces presented, this time, were more suited to the urban scene.
Probably, up to this point, you’ve already considered at some point: but the people who buy these clothes, with values (far) far from the popular, aren’t they the same ones who practice such activities, like skiing? The questioning is rhetorical. But is this the exclusive role of fashion?
Not all brands think like that.
For Aria, a centenary collection by Alessandro Michele for Gucci, skiing has given way to horseback riding. In addition to highlighting the pieces that bore the identity of Balenciaga — both belong to the Kering group — as a sign of admiration for the creative director, what also caught the attention were the outfits worthy of a luxurious horseback ride: tall boots hooking up the trousers for the interior of the shoes and, even more dazzling, the riding hats.
Michele’s idea for the collection was to go back to Gucci’s origins as a saddle maker for the Italian nobility. But it wasn’t restricted to that. Although the luxury items referred to this bourgeois field, the walk of those wearing these clothes brought a subversive behavior, while, for example, the whips cracked on the catwalk.
Along the same lines, with necklines for the men’s collection, à la “Dress of Revenge” by Lady Di, the German GmbH was even more incisive. With models, including many blacks, wearing layers of synthetic fur and pieces that clearly made reference to riding, the brand confronted the reason why such hobbies they are still associated with a certain group of people.
Why are certain spaces and activities such as horseback riding, hiking or skiing normally seen as more for rich, white and bougie people? Basically, we wanted to reclaim this space.”
Serhat Person, creative director of the GmbH
In addition to serving as a symbol of ostentation for those who have financial conditions — and can spend thousands of dollars on the purchase of these clothes — fashion, especially in times of pandemic, showed an even more interesting path to be followed: the creation of pieces that, based on fantasy, they discuss current affairs and social issues.
From this formula, it is possible to ensure that not only the public that can buy them, but a wider range of people can identify with the brand.