Thebe Magugu unveiled Friday at Pitti Uomo his very first collection of menswear. In total, around fifteen elegant silhouettes, with impeccable cuts and full of details, where male classics are revisited through multiple cultural references and an approach more committed than ever.
Taking advantage of the echo offered by the Florentine salon, of which he is the special guest this season, the winner of the LVMH Prize 2019 wanted to denounce through this collection corruption in Africa, and by extension that in the world in general, which plagues the economy and social life at all levels. He thus staged an unusual performance, where 12 of his “corrupt” mannequins were subjected to one by one interrogation under the severe eye of three kinds of Rangers in tartan costume, boots and high hats and raincoat.
At the exit was distributed to the public a newspaper produced by Thebe Magugu with 20 South African journalists whistleblowers on the theme of corruption. The stylist was particularly inspired for his collection of the book “The whistleblowers” by Mandy Wiener and the drawings of the illustrator Jonathan Zapiro, which are used in the prints of cotton shirts and pants. Particularly emblematic this trench coat with two traces of bloody hands dripping on the pockets.
The result is a collection of 15 dense total looks, in a gaucho-cowboy style with cowboy boots made in Italy and wide brimmed hats created in wool felt by South African milliner Crystal Birch. “It’s very inspired by the western world with the good guys against the bad guys. Compared to ready-to-wear, men’s fashion is really another world in terms of proportions and constructions. I realized a silhouette here and there, but more and more men bought my feminine clothes, so I started to think of a line in its own right “, explains the designer behind the scenes.
Her wardrobe gives pride of place to wool, knits and printed cottons. Tunics are knitted in the same tones and patterns as the pants. A red and gray checkered stole matching the costume, wraps the upper body like gaucho ponchos. Orange cotton canvas pants associated with a shirt with pockets let the flaps of what is similar to the traditional cowboy over-pants fall on the thighs. The same detail is available on shorts.
The success has not marred the freshness of the young 27-year-old designer, who again shows great mastery here, from the creation and design of his clothes, entirely produced in South Africa, to the development of fabrics, including by his ability to highlight the creative talents of his country.
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